The perfect spot for America’s first grand winter resort.” That’s what Averell Harriman, chairman of the Union Pacific Railroad, was seeking in 1935 to increase winter vacation travel by train. Colorado had plenty of snowfall but the high altitudes would challenge his guests. Snowfall was too soggy in the Pacific Northwest and the sun didn’t shine. And when he found sunny lower elevations in California, the snowfall was iffy.
About to give up, he heard about an old mining town in south central Idaho. He sent his representative, Count Felix Schaffgtosch, to investigate. Within days he received the following wire: “This combines more delightful features than any place I have ever seen in Switzerland, Austria or the U.S. for a winter resort.”
Harriman immediately rushed deep into the heart of the Sawtooth Mountains and purchased 4,300 acres of land that would become Sun Valley. He then directed his construction crews to build a resort worthy of this majestic setting.
“It is not enough to build a hotel and then mark with flags and signs the things you propose to do in time to come,” Harriman said. “When you get to Sun Valley, your eyes should pop open. There isn’t a single thing that I could wish for that hasn’t been provided.”
By late 1936 – after only seven months – the railroad tycoon had built an elegant, timeless lodge. Complete with glass-enclosed pools, it served the finest cuisine, featured impeccable service and offered top entertainment nightly.
Immediately, Sun Valley shone as Hollywood North, attracting the likes of Clark Gable, Errol Flynn, Claudette Colbert, Bing Crosby and Gary Cooper. Ernest Hemingway wrote For Whom the Bell Tolls upstairs in Room 206 of The Lodge. But the sumptuous facilities were only part of the attraction. Mount Baldy itself immediately became home to world champion skiers such as Don and Gretchen Fraser, Gracie Carter Lindley and Andy Hennig. In fact, the first American to capture Olympic ski medals was Sun Valley’s Gretchen Fraser
in 1948.
Decline and rebirth
For the next several decades Sun Valley reigned as the winter playground for Hollywood legends and European royalty. But during the 1960s and early 70s, its glorious past became passé while areas such as Aspen, Vail, Deer Valley, Whistler/Blackcomb, and Squaw Valley invested in modern lifts, upgraded skier facilities and established the standards for today’s premier ski resorts.
Sun Valley’s turnaround came in 1977 when new, deep-pocketed owner, Earl Holding, lavishly refurbished the resort to the elegant standards initiated by Harriman. Over the following decades he installed seven high-speed quads, the world’s largest automated snowmaking system and three luxurious on-mountain day lodges. At the base area he renovated the historic, four-story Lodge and Inn while retaining their Golden Era character and charm.
“Earl’s philosophy is, ‘If something is worth doing – it’s worth overdoing,’ ” said one employee.
By the late-1990s, Sun Valley once again towered among the country’s premier ski resorts, winning “Number One Ski Area in the U.S.” rankings three times from Ski Magazine.
The resort continues to flourish, garnering awards for terrain, lifts, food quality, lodging, short lift lines and après-ski activities. And the celebrities have returned: actor Bruce Willis owns a ranch nearby, and former presidential candidate John Kerry and wife Teresa live in a 15th-century barn brought over from Europe.
The best keeps getting better
Two seasons ago a $10 million redo glamorized the base lodge at Dollar Mountain (the beginner’s area and children’s center) with Austrian-motif wood and stonework – there are even marble bathrooms pint-sized for kids. Dollar also has a lift-served tubing hill.
New for this season: top-to-bottom snowmaking. (A historical note: Dollar is the site of the world’s first chairlift.) Other recent enhancements include a superpipe on Lower Warm Springs run and a $6 million remodel of Sun Valley Resorts Lodge Apartments.
As one observer put it, “Sun Valley today testifies that ‘old’ doesn’t mean over the hill, and ‘young’ can aspire to the peaks of tradition.”
Sunshine, snow, slopes and solitude
What makes Sun Valley’s Bald Mountain, affectionately known as “Baldy,” so perfect? Locals cite the four S’s – Sunshine, Snow, Slopes and Solitude.
Wide open bowls and ridge lines bask in sunshine 80 percent of the days during the ski season. As for snow, the northern, inland location guarantees champagne-light powder and plenty of it. Regarding its slopes, Baldy has “perfect pitch” – runs that actually run downhill without leveling into cat tracks.
Then there’s solitude. On an average day Sun Valley draws only 3,000 skiers compared with 25,000 on a big day at Vail. Since lift lines remain practically non-existent (Sun Valley claims the highest lift capacity per skier per hour than any other ski resort), skiers and boarders can easily log 30,000 feet of vertical in a day.
For cross-country enthusiasts, a newly combined Sun Valley Nordic and North Valley Trails Season Pass is available this winter season. Priced at $350, this joint pass provides access to 150 kilometers of groomed Nordic trails. For youngsters, Sun Valley designed the world’s first child-sized cross-country tracks, enabling young skiers (3 and up) to maneuver their equipment across the terrain with ease.
Other winter pastimes include ice skating, sleigh rides, snowshoeing, telemark skiing and theme weeks. Sun Valley also features a stream of indoor events including wine tastings, gallery exhibitions, cultural displays, holiday concerts, music festivals, and nature exhibits. For those with an interest in history, the Ketchum-Sun Valley Heritage and Ski Museum exhibits vintage ski gear and pioneer memorabilia.
New for this season, the multi-day Lift Exchange Program allows skiers and boarders to redeem a one-day lift ticket for Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, ice skating, massages, meals, shopping and more.
Après ski
Sun Valley and the nearby village of Ketchum offer food, wine, entertainment and fun for everyone from ski bums to the rich-and-famous set. You’ll find great pizza at Bald Mountain Pizza, a lavish Sunday brunch in the Lodge Dining Room and delectable desserts at the Konditorei. At the Ram Restaurant Larry Harshbarger plays requests on the grand piano as diners enjoy cheese fondue, Idaho lamb, steaks, fresh seafood or elegant French cuisine.
For something different, a horse-drawn sleigh ride through the woods leads to Trail Creek Cabin (a favorite Hemingway hangout), which serves western fare such as steaks, ribs, and mountain trout. The entertainment scene centers on the Boiler Room, Duchin Lounge, and hotspots in Ketchum. First-run movies are shown nightly at The Opera House, and Sun Valley Serenade, a 1941 flick starring Sonja Henie and Glenn Miller set at the resort, plays continuously in the guest rooms.
Like Hemingway, the novelist, visitors can discover the region’s scenic mysteries: the way the lights play at dusk, the layers of fresh powder gently settling on the surrounding peaks and the awesomeness of nature’s majesty.
Best of all, you’ll enjoy it in the style ordained by founder Averell Harriman in 1936: “Roughing it must be a luxury.”
For additional information: www.sunvalley.com, (800) 786-8259.
– Peter Schroeder is a Seattle-based writer, photographer and
lifelong skier. He is also the editor of the Western SnowSports
Guide and a longtime contributor to Outdoors NW. |
