Although many destinations boast of “having it all,” in the winter there is one area in Washington state that can back up that claim.
With a few hours drive time, visitors to the northwest section of the Olympic Peninsula can challenge ocean breakers in a kayak, ski and snowboard, hike lowland trails, take scenic drives or explore Native American history.
Only two lift-serviced ski areas in national parks are left in the U.S. and one of them is the Hurricane Ridge Ski and Snowboard Area in Olympic National Park.
The mainland’s western-most ski area, known for its family atmosphere, is perched a mile above the Strait of Juan de Fuca. If you don’t want to drive the winding Hurricane Ridge Road, take the weekend shuttle bus for the 17-mile ride from Port Angeles.
It’s a trip full of eye candy: Strait of Juan de Fuca, Mount Baker, San Juan Islands, Vancouver Island, Mount Angeles and Mount Olympus.
The 400 inches of average annual snowfall provide plenty of padding for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, downhill fun and the Brad Stenger Memorial Race, the low-key ski and snowboard giant slalom at the Hurricane Ridge Spring Carnival March 24-25.
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For those not as enamored by mountains gripped by the Cosmic Snowman, there are alternatives.
Hiking
With higher-elevation trails buried under snow, bipeds must turn their attention to the lowlands. While it rains more than 200 inches on the west side of Olympic National Park, Port Angeles, home to 20,000, is semi-protected by the mountains and averages about 25 inches a year, giving hikers a chance to walk the lowlands without drowning.
Another coast option is the 9.3-mile round-trip Cape Alava Loop, much of it on a planked trail. The hike includes petroglyphs on the Wedding Rocks, about one-third the way going south on the beach section.
Other easy lowland hikes in the Port Angeles area include Marymere Falls Trail, a stroll through the rain forest near Lake Crescent to the 90-foot falls; and Spruce Railroad Trail, an 8-mile round-trip along Lake Crescent’s northern shore on an old railroad bed. It’s almost always snow-free although sometimes muddy in winter.
The La Push area east of Forks offers great beach hikes, including Second Beach and Third Beach.
Hiking/Biking
The nearly flat Olympic Discovery Trail offers sea-level views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Mountains. When completed, the 100-mile trail will stretch from Port Townsend to the ocean. So far, about 30 miles, mostly asphalt or chip-seal (suitable for fat tires), are completed from Port Angeles’ Ediz Hook east to Sequim.
Kayaking
The most protected spot is inside the Ediz Hook, which curls around much of Port Angeles’ harbor. The natural sand spit was formed thousands of years ago with silt from the Elwha River.
There are several easy launching options and a chance to paddle near oil tankers at anchor, log-storage areas, harbor seals, ducks and eagles. A good paddle is to launch near the end of the hook, follow the shoreline to Hollywood Beach on the other side of the City Pier, pull out and have lunch at one of the nearby restaurants.
Out for a drive
For milder recreation with emphasis on scenery, veer off U.S. 101 onto the Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway (S.R. 112), which began as a dirt path connecting logging and fishing communities.
The 61-mile-long National Scenic Byway starts eight miles west of Port Angeles and ends at the boundary of the Makah Indian Reservation. A reservation road continues to Cape Flattery, the farthest northwest point of the mainland U.S.
Sometimes the winding slash of two-lane highway hugs the shoreline with views of sea stacks and islands, with the Strait not much lower than the tires; or it darts through inland forests, skirting clear cuts and rising to scenic overlooks.
Stop for refreshments at the Joyce Country Store. Lanterns and Indian art meet chainsaws and old photographs in the state’s oldest continuously operating store.
At the end of the road is Neah Bay, a fishing village on the edge of the 27,000-acre Makah Indian Reservation and a two-hour drive from Port Angeles. Be sure to visit Washburn’s General Store before exploring the jewel of the reservation, the remarkable Makah Museum.
About 1 percent of the 55,000 artifacts dug from a mud slide that buried the Ozette village hundreds of years ago are displayed. Learn how the land shapes a culture, from whaling to the creativity behind wooden boxes, baskets and bone-and-antler technology.
Since you’ve traveled this far, don’t miss the three-quarter-mile Cape Flattery Trail ($10 recreation permit required) for spectacular views of sea stacks and lighthouse. Four observation decks offer sightlines to Tatoosh Island and the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary.
If you Go:
Attractions:
Hurricane Ridge Ski and Snowboard Area: 4,800-5,500 feet elevation (800-foot vertical drop); 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Fridays–Sundays and some holidays through April 1. All-day tickets $8–20; park entrance fee $15 per vehicle. Shuttle bus
($5, park fee waived) Saturdays-Sundays through March 4.
Road/weather information: (360) 565-3131;
ski area (360) 457-2879, www.hurricaneridge.net
Makah Museum: (360) 645-2711;
Makah Tribal Council, (360) 645-2201.
North Olympic Peninsula Visitors Bureau: (800) 942-4042, www.olympicpeninsula.org
Olympic Discovery Trail: www.olympicdiscoverytrail.com
Olympic National Park: www.nps.gov/olym
Port Angeles: (360) 452-2363; www.portangeles.org
Lodging:
Forks: Olympic Suites, (800) 262-3433, optional kitchens; Brightwater House, (360) 374-5453, Sol Duc River.
La Push: Quileute Oceanside Resort, (800) 487-1267, rooms on the beach.
Port Angeles: La Place Sur la Mer, (888) 248-1277, B&B on the beach; Portside Inn, (877) 438-8588, reasonably priced;Red Lion Hotel, some waterfront view, (888) 333-2733.
2007 NW Olympic Peninsula Events
March 10: Athlete’s Choice Race Series: Lincoln Park,
Port Angeles, 10 a.m., (360) 461-2966.
April 7: Athlete’s Choice Race Series: RobinHill Run,
Port Angeles, 10 a.m., (360) 461-2966.
April 13–15: 7th annual Kayak Symposium, Waterfront,
Port Angeles, (360) 452-1443, www.raftandkayak.com
April 21: Kids Fishing Derby: Lincoln Park Pond, Port Angeles, 8-11 a.m., (360) 417-4557, www.cityofpa.us
May 5: Athlete’s Choice Race Series: 28th annual Sequim Run-Off (oldest running event in Clallam County), Old Dungeness Schoolhouse, Sequim, 10 a.m., (360) 461-2966.
May 19: Olympic Cycling Classic, scenic century and half century road bike course, (360) 457-6755,
www.olybikeride.com
May 26–27: 7th Halibut Derby, $20,000 in cash prizes, Port Angeles Boat Haven. Tickets $30; (360) 452-2357,
www.swainsinc.com
June 10: North Olympic Discovery Marathon, full and half marathon run or walk along picturesque Olympic Discovery Trail; (360) 417-1301, www.nodm.com
Sept. 14–16: Port Angeles Senior Games, men and women
50 and over, Port Angeles. (360) 457-7004,
www.portangelesseniorgames.com
Sept. 23: 4th annual Olympic Discovery Bike Ride, 50 miles along Olympic Discovery Trail, shoreline and other scenic roadways, 9 a.m. (360) 417-4557,
www.olympicdiscoverybike.com
Nov. 25: Olympic Medical Center Jingle Bell Run, 9 a.m.,
Port Angeles, (360) 417-7000.
-Maggie Savage and Sharon Wootton are free-lance writers from the San Juan Islands and co-owners of Song & Word (songandword.com), writing/songwriting workshops/retreats for women. |
