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Places - Escapes
 
   

Photo by Jon Brunk

 
 

Down By The Bay
Bellingham is a small city with big outdoor fun

 
 

By Maggie Savage and Sharon Wootton

 

 

   Bellingham seemingly has it all. Located on the Puget Sound approximately 85 miles north of Seattle and just 55 miles south of Vancouver, B.C., its 71,000 residents can sail to the San Juan Islands or bike the 6-mile-long Interurban Trail – a railroad bed turned cycle and running path – on a moment’s notice. Mount Baker is only 58 miles east, providing year-round access for outdoor enthusiasts. And Larrabee State Park, 6 miles south, is a launching point for kayaking, scuba diving and more.

 

   The word is getting out – both National Geographic Adventure magazine and Outside magazine have named Bellingham one of their favorite outdoor-oriented cities – yet Bellingham is still a small city with a friendly atmosphere, a half dozen brewpubs and coffee shops galore. What more could you ask for?

 

Ski to Sea

    No single event better symbolizes the outdoors experience between Bellingham and Mount Baker than Whatcom County’s signature Ski to Sea race, an 82.5-mile team relay involving skiing or snowboarding, running, bicycling, canoeing, mountain biking and sea kayaking.
The 33rd annual race is scheduled for May 28. The event dates back to the Mount Baker marathon of 1911-13, which included running up Mount Baker, a run/scramble that took at least nine and a half hours. Unfortunately, the race was discontinued after one contestant fell into a crevasse and nearly died. The resurrection of the event now draws over 3,200 competitors every Memorial Day weekend.

    While Ski to Sea kicks off the summer season, Bellingham’s other up and coming multi-sport race, the Bellingham Traverse, brings a close to the season over Labor Day weekend. The race set for Sept. 2 is a fundraiser for various environmental groups throughout the state.

 

Hang Time

    If you haven’t already registered for the Ski to Sea, grab your hiking boots and a trusted hang gliding guide to put together a spring mountain-to-saltwater event of your own.
“Hang-gliding is the slowest, simplest, safest, strongest form of aviation known to man,” said James Fieser, owner of Whatcom Wings and site manager at Blanchard Mountain for the U.S. Hang Gliding Association. He lives a few minutes from Blanchard Mountain, which at 1,200 feet is Whatcom County’s premier take-off site.

    Fieser is a certified instructor and can take clients on tandem flights, the only way for beginners to experience the thrilling ride.

    “You can see all of the San Juans and a beautiful, preserved forest that we fly over. It’s the most incredible hang gliding site in the Northwest. Honestly, the views can’t be beat and the launch direction there is like no other place to launch in Washington state, except for Chelan Butte,” Fieser said of the take-off point.

 

Pack Your Paddle

    Bellingham, which was named the second-best paddling and ski town in the nation by Paddler magazine in 2000, and Whatcom County offer both saltwater and freshwater boating opportunities. Sea kayakers can paddle along Bellingham, Chuckanut or Samish Bays, opting to take a day trip or camp at Larrabee State Park.

    Flatwater and whitewater boaters will both find sections to run along the Nooksack River. While the 8.5-mile-long stretch from Everson to Lynden is rated Class I (few ripples, requiring very little maneuvering), it has some hazards, including logjams, sweepers and fast water (a 7-mph current is not unusual).

 

Hikes with a View

    Leave the lowlands behind and drive east on Mount Baker Highway (Hwy 542) past the Mount Baker Ski Resort to Artist Point where, at 5,140-feet, capturing alpine views doesn’t necessarily require clawing your way up the slopes.

    On a clear day, you’ll see Mount Baker’s peak to the south and Mount Shuksan and Table Mountain to the east. Take the self-guided, one-mile-long interpretive Artist Ridge Trail or head out on the Chain Lakes Trail, which starts on the northwest side of the parking area. Hike 4.5 miles to the lakes and enjoy flowering meadows in spring and summer. Return the same way with little elevation gain or loss, or make a 7-mile-long loop using the Wild Goose Trail to return (uphill) to Artist Point.

    Mount Baker Ski Resort recorded, so far, over 700 inches of snow this year so it may be July before you can drive all the way to this vantage point. Heather Meadows, located at 4,100 feet, is a better option in May and June. If you don’t have much time, two 1/2-mile-long trails from the Heather Meadows Visitor Center – Picture Lake or Fire and Ice trails – provide fantastic views with little change in elevation.

    Don’t have much time? Drive 25 miles east of Bellingham on Hwy 542 and turn off just before milepost 17 to reach the Canyon Lake Creek Community Forest. One of the state’s oldest forests, its 2,300 acres include 700 acres of old-growth trees – some that were seedlings in the year 1000! The area’s only significant hike is the 7.5-mile-long round-trip Old Growth Forest Trail, rated strenuous.

 

Pedal Power

    Bellingham was ranked the seventh best city for mountain biking in the U.S. by Mountain Bike magazine in 2001 because of recreation areas such as Lake Padden and Galbraith Mountain. While Lake Padden has trails for riders of all abilities, Galbraith is for intermediate and expert riders only (trails include Death Climb, 911 and Purple Heart).

    While there are plenty of relatively flat road rides to the east of Bellingham, cyclists love the challenge of Chuckanut Drive to the south. Winding along the coast from Burlington to Bellingham’s historic district (Fairhaven), the road starts with 9.5 gentle miles through Samish farmlands before heading uphill for 11.5 miles. Take in periodic views of the San Juan Islands and Chuckanut Bay, break for a picnic lunch at Larrabee State Park (milepost 14) or treat yourself at one of the restaurants along the way. (Be warned that this ride is not for everyone. While the first 8 miles of Chuckanut Drive have bike lanes on either side, the next 6 do not. From milepost 14-20, use the Interurban Trail. Bike lanes show up again at milepost 18.)

 

Back In Bellingham

    Whether you log 50 miles on your bike or a couple miles in your hiking boots, everyone needs a place to refuel. Bellingham and Fairhaven offer both casual and fine dining options. While in town, be sure to stop at Boundary Bay Brewery located downtown, Village Books in Fairhaven and the outdoor sculpture garden at Western Washington University. At the end of the day, relax and watch the sunset over Bellingham Bay from Boulevard Park.

   Bellingham has over a dozen luxurious and budget hotels as well as a handful of bed and breakfasts. For a rejuvenating evening, treat yourself by staying at the Chrysalis Inn & Spa and wake up with a view of the ocean.


You wanted it all. You got it.

 

Before You Go:

Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism Information: (800) 487-2032, www.bellingham.org, http://whatcom.kulshan.com
Bellingham Traverse: www.bellinghamtraverse.com/home.htm
Hang Gliding: Whatcom Wings, 2810 Utter St., (360) 671-3037

Hiking:
Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest: (360) 599-2714, www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/about/mbrd.shtml
Bellingham Parks and Recreation: (360) 676-6985, www.cob.org/parks/
Whatcom County Parks: (360) 733-2900, www.whatcomcounty.us/parks/trails/trails.jsp
Mountain Biking: Galbraith Mountain Guide, www.galbraithmt.com

Water Activities:
Kayaking: Elakah Expeditions, (800) 434-7270, and Moon Dance, (360) 738-7664
Whale Watching: Island Mariner Cruises, (877) 734-8866
Ski to Sea (the race’s website spells it without hyphens) www.bellingham.com/skitosea
Bellingham Traverse: www.bellinghamtraverse.com

 

 

-— Maggie Savage and Sharon Wootton are
freelance writers and co-producers of writing,
songwriting and nature-related workshops in the
San Juan Islands (www.songandword.com).