A Salish Indian word meaning “Rendezvous,” Okanogan has long been a popular meeting place for Native Americans, travelers, traders and others passing through North Central Washington.
At 5,300 square miles, Okanogan is Washington’s largest county (and larger than some states), bordered by the Pacific Crest Trail to the west, Canada to the north, the Okanogan River to the east and the Methow River on the south.
In the Okanogan you can hike the North Cascades, bike through rolling meadows and raft the Methow River, all while catching the same views as visitors of centuries past. Rich in cultural history, Okanogan is home to numerous sites listed on the National Register of Historical Places, including Chief Joseph Memorial.
Drive-Thru Scenery
Although early settlers did not have the luxury of automobiles, many scenic byways offer easy access to Okanogan County’s picturesque landscape.
The North Cascades Scenic Highway (Hwy 20), which begins in the Skagit River Valley and rises to some of the wildest country in the state, passes through North Cascades National Park and past Ross Lake before descending into the rugged Methow Valley.
To get a panoramic view of the North Cascades range without lacing up your hiking boots, make a detour to the lookout tower at Harts Pass and Slate Peak (see “Before You Go” for directions). On a clear day, you’ll see numerous peaks from this 7,400-foot vantage point, including Mount Baker. If you’re feeling ambitious, drive 1.5 miles the Pacific Crest Trail, which leads north to Windy Pass or south to Grasshopper Pass.
The 83-mile Okanogan Scenic Byway begins in Pateros at the confluence of the Columbia and Methow rivers and travels north to the Canadian border near Oroville. Drive this highway and you will trace the historic Cariboo Trail, where Native Americans, fur traders and gold miners traveled between the Washington Territory and Canada.
High Alpine Treks
Take the edge off the 90-plus-degree heat that bakes the lowlands during the summer by embarking on one of countless high-elevation hikes. Many are covered in snow until late June or early July so, early in the season, bring gaiters and walking poles.
For scenic overlooks, wildflower meadows and old mining sites, visit the Horseshoe Basin Trail, located about 20 miles east of Tonasket (see “Before You Go” for directions). Not to be confused with the well-known Horseshoe Basin area in North Cascades National Park, this is a remote area in the Pasayten Wilderness.
If you are traveling through Winthrop, the Methow Ranger District offers maps and information for several great day and overnight backcountry trips.
Steep but breathtaking day hikes include the 7-mile Maple Pass Loop, which climbs above Lake Anne, and the 12-mile Cutthroat Pass and 7-mile Windy Pass trails.
Washington Pass, 6 miles east of Rainy Pass, provides spectacular views of Liberty Bell and Early Winter Spires, two of the highlights of the North Cascades - and the viewpoint is only 800 feet from Hwy 20.
Picturesque Pedals
If you prefer mountain biking, the loops at Winthrop’s Sun Mountain Lodge should be high on your list. Many other trails in the Winthrop/Twisp area will provide hours of enjoyment and exercise, including the challenging ride up 7,000-foot Starvation Mountain, starting on Lightning Creek Trail at Beaver Creek Campground.
A moderate and popular ride is Pipestone Canyon near Twisp. This 12-mile-long dirt road eventually passes through a rock-walled canyon.
If you’d rather stick to the road, plan to visit June 11 for the Native Planet Classic, a new bicycle ride staged on Hwy 20 with varying lengths. The century and super century routes will climb up and over 5,477-foot Washington Pass.
The Methow Valley Sports Trails Association (MVSTA) is a great resource for finding trails and outdoor events of all kinds (see “Before You Go”).
Take it Easy
It’s not necessary to work up a sweat to enjoy Okanogan County. Hang out at the Winthrop Rhythm & Blues Festival July 14-16 or the Methow Music Festival July 28-Aug. 5. Root for the riders during the Tonasket Rodeo June 3-5 and the Omak Rodeo Aug. 11-14. Enjoy locally grown food from one of many roadside stands. (Be sure to stop at Cascadian Farms’ stand on SR 20, 3 miles east of Rockport, for an organic strawberry milkshake.)
Bring your binoculars and hunt for wildlife at the Sililkameen Wildlife Refuge southeast of Okanogan; look for mountain goats at the state’s first game refuge, Sinlahekin Wildlife Refuge south of Loomis; or go birding on Driscoll Island south of Oroville.
With Okanogan County’s wide range of lodging options, from the luxurious Sun Mountain Lodge to ranches to backcountry campsites, you’ll find adequate shelter, rain or shine. The county is rich in state parks, providing an alternative to campsites in the national forests.
Follow in the footsteps of travelers past or blaze your own trail on foot, bike or horseback. Whether you rendezvous with old friends or embark on a solo journey, you’ll make plenty of memories in Okanogan County.
Before You Go:
Okanogan County Tourism Council: (888) 431-3080, www.okanogancountry.com
Okanogan National Forest: Methow Valley Visitor Center, Winthrop, Wash.; (509) 996-4000, www.fs.fed.us/r6/oka/
Methow Valley Sports Trails Association: Winthrop, Wash.; (509) 996-3287, www.mvsta.com
Directions
Harts Pass and Slate Peak: From Hwy 20 in Mazama, turn (north) onto Mazama Road and drive .2 miles to Hart’s Pass Road (Forest Service Road 5400). Turn left and drive 18.5 miles to Forest Service Road 5400-600. Turn right and drive 5 miles to Slate Pass at road’s end.
Horseshoe Basin: From Loomis, turn right onto Sinlahekin Valley Road and drive 2 miles to Forest Service Road 39. Turn right and drive 14 miles to Iron Gate Road. Turn right and drive 5 miles to road’s end.
-— Maggie Savage and Sharon Wootton
are freelance writers and co-producers of
writing and songwriting workshops in the
San Juan Islands (www.songandword.com). |
