The combination of a lengthy ski season, varied terrain, and supernatural beauty makes Crater Lake a gem for any Nordic skier with strong backcountry skills.
And, if you’re lucky enough to step into your skis on a clear day at this southern Oregon treasure, you might believe you have entered that otherworldly realm described in Klamath Indian mythology. The still-gray lake lies a thousand feet below, and you gaze along the rim at volcanic remnants thrusting into the sky. Pristine snow seems to have buried the world.
Although the weather is unpredictable until May, skiing the lake in winter is possible either through the full 30-mile circuitous tour or through shorter, less-committing sections.
Any winter trip at Crater Lake begins with two things: careful planning (because you will need to carry everything you’ll need, including an avalanche beacon and snow shovel) and a long drive (because the park lies far from the Northwest’s urban areas).
Once you arrive, you can’t let your enthusiasm rocket you to the rim. Any back-country excursion begins at park headquarters, located two miles before Rim Village. The rangers there will assess your skill level, review your equipment, and map out the route, most but not all of which follows the park’s Rim Road. They will also identify the significant avalanche zones the circuit crosses.
The rangers will also point out one other problem to ponder before circumnavigating the lake. Your car will be parked at Rim Village, but your trip ends back at headquarters — two miles and 700 feet below your vehicle. Unless you provide a car shuttle, one member of your party might end up hoofing uphill along the road shoulder — not a pleasant prospect after days on skis with a full pack.
Although the entire ski circuit is outlined in this story, I recommend those of you lacking strong wilderness skills or arriving in questionable weather to start by testing yourself with shorter trips. Rim Village to the Watchman or park headquarters to Vidae Ridge are two to practice on. Even these sections are glorious, providing spectacular lake views or a winding route through nearly-deserted forest, respectively.
Rim Village to North Junction (6 miles)
After parking your car per the ranger’s directions at Rim Village, you begin skiing the Rim Road, with Wizard Island dead ahead and 8,900-foot Mount Scott across the water.
Soon, you’ll begin climbing the Watchman, a jagged remnant topped by a lookout. Two points here require caution: the Watchman’s slopes represent the first avalanche zone, and the peak’s far northeastern side requires a narrow, icy crossing above cliffs.
After that dicey traverse, the fun resumes. You climb the shoulder of Hillman Peak and then descend telemarking terrain to North Junction, a saddle perched high on the lake’s northeast corner.
North Junction to Cloud Cap (12 miles)
From North Junction, you’ll traverse five rolling miles where you’ll reach the sign marking the Cleetwood Trail, the path to the boat launch to Wizard Island in summer.
In late season, this area may require some tricky skiing as winds blow head-high drifts in spots and expose the road’s pavement in others.
After another five miles, you’ll come upon Skell Head, a good camp site if you’re too exhausted for the steep uphill to Cloud Cap, the tour’s highest point at 7,900 feet. However, if you’re still bursting with energy, Cloud Cap makes the ideal destination, overlooking both the lake and the open bowls of Mount Scott.
Cloud Cap to Vidae Ridge (12 miles approximate)
Depending on conditions, the tour here can vary dramatically. Once you leave Cloud Cap, you’ll have a swift ride to Kerr Notch, descending through open country at first but then navigating a steep traverse that is followed by a slide zone which illustrates why that avalanche beacon is necessary. Once you’re past the slide zone, a short detour leads to the Phantom Ship Overlook, where you can see both the ghostly rock formation and catch your last glimpse of the lake.
Almost immediately after that, you’ll hit a road junction, and unless you’re an X-Games candidate, you should head southeast. You’ll encounter signage to the Dutton Cliffs bypass in just over a mile, and here again you have a choice.
You can keep your skis on and follow the road to the Lost Creek Campground and then up Grayback Ridge — a route that passes the tour’s most extreme avalanche areas but also takes a lot of time. Or you can pack your skis and follow the bypass, clearly marked by diamonds, back onto the Rim Road beyond the cliffs. This choice gets you into wide-open ski country, and careful route-finding gets you onto the west side of Dutton Ridge.
From here, you glide toward the hair-pin turn below Sun Notch and the cliffs of Applegate Peak. Passing through one last avalanche area, you drop to Vidae Falls then begin a final climb to the top of Vidae Ridge, an ascent hardly noticeable after all the territory you’ve covered so far.
After topping the ridge with 27 miles behind you, (you’ll be too blinded by visions of a latté and a warm bed to even slow down), you can coast down to the road across from park headquarters. At this point, you’ll have completed one of the world’s unique wilderness ski excursions.
You can be justifiably proud of your ability to cut turns with 40 pounds on your back, of your route-finding skills, and your good judgment (demonstrated by the way you negotiated those avalanche zones).
Now you and your partners have just one challenge remaining: who will draw the short straw and hike those two miles back to your car?
If You Go
Directions: Because the northern entrance to the park is closed in winter, the best route to take is I-5 to just south of Grants Pass, Ore. From there follow State Highway 234 to State 62 (the Crater Lake Highway). Alternatively, you can take I-5 a little farther south, to Medford, and then take State 62 to the Park. Plan on approximately another 1-1/2 hours in the car after you leave I-5; longer if State 62 is snow-covered.
Lodging: It’s possible to car-camp at several national forest sites along Highway 62, but if you want a warm bed, contact the Visitors and Convention Bureaus for Grants Pass or Medford, www.visitgrantspass.org or www.visitmedford.org, respectively. If you enjoy a more rustic setting, Lonesome Duck Ranch and Resort, located about 30 minutes from Crater Lake on Highway 97, offers three fully equipped log homes on 2-1/2 miles of riverfront. Snowshoes are included with each rental. www.lonesomeduck.com.
Crater Lake Park Info: Call (541) 594-3000 before any trip for information on everything from the weather forecast to current snow conditions.
D.E.
Doug Emory is an avid mountaineer and cross-country skier who lives in Tacoma. In his off hours, he works for the state community and technical college system.
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