While I strongly adhere to the old axiom, “life is a journey, not a destination,” when it comes to mountain biking, I often feel the reverse. More often than not, when you head out for a day of riding on singletrack, you’ll have to face more than a few long grunts up narrow, gnarly trails. While you won’t find a hot tub or a luxurious bed at the end of your slog, the trail will often reward you with panoramic views that cross county lines, capture distant lakes and put you eye-to-eye with soaring hawks. Finding a scenic destination can turn a mediocre trail into a new favorite.
Here are two Northwest trail profiles to get you started.
The Palisades Trail
The Palisades Trail, located outside of Enumclaw,
Wash., is characterized by its narrow trail that teeters on the edges of cliffs, providing views of Mount Rainier and neighboring peaks.
Getting There
From Seattle, take I-5 south to I-405 north. Take 405 to Renton, watching for signs to Hwy 169 south. Follow 169 until it ends in Enumclaw. Turn left onto Hwy 410 headed east. Follow 410 east beyond the small town of Greenwater and park at The Dalles Campground.
What to Expect
The beauty of most mountain biking trails is that they provide endless options. In this case, you can prelude your ridge ride with a long hill climb; or you can leave one car at The Dalles Campground and drive another to the top of Forest Service Road 7174 and avoid facing any major elevation gains on your bike.
If you want to feel the burn, leave straight from The Dalles Campground, and pedal five miles on paved Hwy 410 to Road 7174. Be sure to stop for a quick breather at the vehicle pullout two miles down the road, soaking up the view of Skookum Falls.
The first mile of this well-maintained dirt road starts off with mild elevation gain and no real challenge; but for the next five steep miles, you might be wishing that you’d aborted the mission and driven instead. With Mount Rainier looming behind, you’ll have a good excuse to give your legs and lungs a break while you turn to admire
the view.
At the top of the road, find the signs for the Noble Knob Trail to the left of the parking area, which contours along the ridge with little elevation change. Your biggest challenge will be focusing on the trail rather than the scenery around you. Numerous viewpoints offer glimpses into the White River Valley and toward Mount Rainier.
When the trail begins its decent down the Ranger Creek drainage, maintain your speed until you reach a timber shelter where the trail forks off in two directions. Bypass the Ranger Creek Trail and take the moderate, five-mile-long Palisades route. Eventually, work your way down the trail until you are confronted with a series of steep switchbacks. This section is better off hiked, as it is very steep and dangerous. Keep your eyes open for a side trail that affords you access to a towering unnamed waterfall.
Continue down the trail and you’ll be spit out onto the road, where you’ll turn right on Hwy 410 and coast two miles to The Dalles Campground.
The Plains of Abraham Trail
The Ape Canyon/Plains of Abraham Trail, located within the Mount St. Helens National Monument, offers riders an amazing opportunity to experience the destructive power of volcanoes and the rebuilding cycle that follows.
Getting There
From Portland, drive north on I-5 to Woodland. Exit, turn left and follow the signs to Cougar. Follow the road leaving Cougar, which will turn into Forest Service Road 90 just beyond the town. Keep an eye open for a left turn onto Forest Service Road 83. Follow road 83 until it ends at the Ape Canyon Trailhead.
What to Expect
Starting at the Ape Canyon Trailhead is not something guidebooks usually suggest. Most recommended routes work north to south starting at the Windy Ridge Trailhead outside of Randle. But starting from the south is beneficial in two ways: First, the south side access road is a shorter drive for people coming from Portland. Second, you’ll be challenged with a fairly taxing climb early while you’re legs are still fresh, rather than halfway through your ride. Views of Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams will aid in the uphill battle.
The trail starts off gently, dancing along the remains of a 25-year-old lahar (rock debris flow), before it starts to climb. After the trail reaches its apex, the landscape is barren, with only pumice, small wildflowers and marmots to keep you company. This area is called The Plains of Abraham, which was scarred and transformed by the 1980 eruption and is striking for its surreal feeling.
As the faint trail works its way from cairn to cairn, you’ll begin to see more and more of Mount St. Helens, culminating in a view from Windy Ridge of the crater and the currently rebuilding lava dome.
While there have been some closures in the area due to the mountain’s recent volcanic activity, the Ape Canyon Trail and the Plains of Abraham have remained open. How much longer these trails remain open is entirely up to the mountain.
This area is very popular on the weekends, so if you can make it up on a weekday, the ethereal environment will feel more authentic. If you want an easy warm-up before hitting the Ape Canyon Trail, check out the Lava Canyon Trail, which begins just 200 yards before Ape Canyon.
Before You Go:
Books:
Kissing the Trail, 3rd Edition by John Zilly, Adventure Press, 2003.
Mountain Bike! Washington by Alan Bennett, Chris Leman and Laurie Leman, Menasha Ridge Press, 1999.
Ranger Districts:
Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest: (360) 825-6585
Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument: (360) 449-7800
– Alan Leonard, of Portland, is an Outdoors NW intern
and an avid mountain biker and climber.
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