Distances are grand and settlements are few in Oregon’s southeast corner. It is an area many eastern Oregonians deem harsh and barren, yet countless surprises exist for those who explore it. Dubbed “Oregon’s outback” by the local chamber of commerce, I like to refer to the area as the state’s “Big Empty.”
Ringed in ridges, cut by canyons and streaked by streams, the area is clear of crowds, yet abundant in flora and fauna. Towering above it all, Steens Mountain commands most of the attention.
Thirty miles long and reaching a height of 9,733 feet, Steens is the longest fault-block mountain in Oregon. Steens appears gentle and broad from the west, but its eastside
is quite dramatic — plunging 5,000 sheer vertical feet into the Alvord Desert. However, four immense U-shaped gorges — results of Steens’ past glaciations — are even more impressive.
Thanks to the Steens Mountain Cooperative Management and Protection Act of 2000, 169,000 acres of the mountain from 4,200 to 9,800 feet above sea level are designated as Wilderness. This area, located 60 miles southeast of Burns, is three times the size of the Mount Hood Wilderness Area. Many volunteer groups still spend weeks during the summer pulling and rolling barbed-wire fences from this land that was once used
for ranching.
Owing to its lofty height, Steens traps more moisture than the surrounding plains, which helps support cedar, aspen and mountain mahogany on its high slopes. Wildflowers – many endemic only to Steens – paint the mountain in a profusion of colors come late spring. Creeks cascade down its ravines and snow lingers well into summer on its northern slopes.
Autumn, however, is one of the best times to explore this Oregon gem. Temperatures are often comfortable, bugs are only a minor nuisance and the aspen turn to gold.
A wide array of wildlife, including sheep, antelope, wild horses, coyotes, jackrabbits and the elusive kit fox inhabit this wild corner of Oregon. Birdlife is prolific, especially in the marshy areas and large lakes north of the mountain. Curlews, pelicans, avocets and sandhill cranes are all common residents.
Before its designation as a wilderness area, Steens was the domain of Basque, Welsh, and Irish sheepherders, and then the grazing grounds for a handful of ranchers. Relics of Steens’ past are scattered across the mountain, including structures that belonged to Peter French, former owner of one of the largest cattle ranches in America.
The 49-mile-long gravel Steens Mountain Loop Road provides access to a good portion of the wilderness. The high slopes and deep gorges of Steens make for some worthy hiking, but if you’re accustomed to well-maintained trails, beware: The trails on Steens are primitive and often unmarked.
Also note that weather here can be extreme, from blistering heat to sudden snow storms. Afternoon thunderstorms occur regularly in the summer months. Watch for rattlesnakes along creek valleys. Prepare for the unexpected by carrying extra clothes, raingear, a headlamp and plenty of water.
– Craig Romano, of Seattle,
is the Trails Editor for Outdoors NW.
Steens Mountain Sampler
Wildhorse Lake
2.6 miles round-trip
1,100-foot elevation gain
Access from Steens Mountain Summit road; a two-mile spur off the Steens Mountain Loop Road; 25 miles from Frenchglen, Ore.
A steep descent to a stunning alpine lake in a barren cirque 8,500 feet above sea level. One of the highest and most dramatic bodies of water in eastern Oregon, Wildhorse provides breathtaking views and a challenging climb back to the trailhead at 9,600 feet.
Big Indian Gorge
16 miles round-trip
1,900-foot elevation gain
Access from the South Steens Campground; 19 miles on the Steens Mountain Loop Road (south entrance); 29 miles from Frenchglen, Ore.
Along this eight-mile trail, marvel at the wide-open slopes of a glacially carved valley. Springtime brings an abundance of flower blossoms, while creek-side groves of aspen give off a golden glow in the fall.
Kiger Gorge Rim Walk
1-4 miles round-trip
Up to 500-foot elevation gain
Access from the Kiger Gorge Overlook access road; a .5-mile spur off the Steens Mountain Loop Road; 23 miles from Frenchglen, Ore.
Perhaps the most dramatic of Steens’ giant clefts, Kiger Gorge is 2,000 feet deep and adorned with a spectacular notch on its sheer eastern wall. From the overlook, hike east (no formal trail) along the open gorge rim for stunning and spiraling views down into
the canyon.
Before You Go:
Directions
The Steens Mountain Loop Road can be accessed from Frenchglen, Ore., a small community 60 miles southeast of Burns on SR 205. Services in the Steens Mountain area are limited – be sure you are well-stocked and that your vehicle’s tank is full before leaving Burns.
Lodging
Camping: There are four public campgrounds on the Steens Mountain Loop Road;
(541) 573-4400, www.harneycounty.com/SteensMtn.htm
Hotel Diamond: A historic lodge that serves delicious family style dinners;
(541) 493-1898, www.central-oregon.com/hoteldiamond
Frenchglen Historical Hotel: A historic lodge that serves lunch and dinner;
(541) 493-2825, www.oregonstateparks.org/park_3.php
Hiking:
BLM Office, Burns,OR: (541) 573-4400, www.blm.gov
100 Hikes/Travel Guide: Eastern Oregon by William L. Sullivan, Navillus Press, 2001
Oregon Natural Desert Association, volunteer hiking trips, www.onda.org .
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