I had the trail to myself and was enjoying the tranquility and scenery of the blue skies and freshly groomed trails at Galena Nordic Park in southern Idaho. The fresh, crisp air was a welcome relief to that in the city.
Stopping to catch my breath on top of a ridge, I planted my poles and looked around. I really was alone. Eerily, there was no sound. I looked around at the snowy fields, gulped in the fresh air and laughed out loud at my thought of the choking traffic back home in Seattle.
I closed my eyes and listened for something, anything. It actually kind of scared me because I thought I had lost my hearing. Then THUMP! WHOOSH! My heart skipped as I turned in the direction of the sudden muffled blast. A cloud of snow dust was hovering over the ground under a tree 50 yards from me. And then another lesser thump-whoosh and I watched in amusement as a big blob of heavy snow fell from the branches of the evergreen.
Silly me. I grabbed my poles and continued on, double-stunned by my new awareness of the “sound” of silence and the suddenness of how it was broken.
Galena, about a half hour drive from Sun Valley, boasts 53-kilometers of rolling hills. In the 20-odd years I’ve been cross-country skiing, this backcountry experience was without a doubt my most inspired.
Through the years, I’ve enjoyed many Nordic outings throughout the Northwest. Some have been on the lush groomed trails at ski resorts, others at Sno-Parks and, another even in front of my house last winter (you all remember the snow last winter).
In no particular order, then, here are some of my most notable cross-country ski outings.
White Pass. To this day, I can’t remember skiing in better powder than laying down new tracks in fresh backcountry snow at White Pass. Their smallish, but forest-draped groomed 10-kilometers, especially the loop around The Lake, rounded out a perfect Nordic weekend with friends. www.skiwhitepass.com/nordiccenter.
Stevens Pass Nordic Center. Here I found a historic train-theme throughout the center, in honor of the east-west rail line nearby. My friends rented skis at the Cascade Depot Nordic center and then we took off on various trails on the 28-kilometer system featuring names such as Chuga Chuga, Spike, Switcher, Roundhouse, Mainline and Caboose.
The Nordic Center is located five miles east of the alpine resort and just 32 miles from Leavenworth, home of the Cascade’s Bavarian Village. I’ve enjoyed countless weekends holed up in this mountain town with its quaint accommodations and 26 kilometers of ski trails.
The Icicle River Trail has always been my favorite, especially the time we had to step aside to let the dog-mushers through. www.stevenspass.com; www.skileavenworth.com/nordic.
Izaak Walton Inn: Only in Montana would you be turned back by a moose and her calf on the trail. Yep, this really did happen along the Middle Fork River Trail, part of the 33-kilometer system at Izaak Walton Inn near Glacier National Park. We made up for it the next day though, with a wondrous guided trip on the Continental Divide near Marias Pass at 5,220 feet.
Carefully crossing the railroad tracks used by Amtrak’s Empire Builder, we then skied through the forest and finally into a clearing where we gazed slack-jawed at the towering 9,000-foot Glacier Park mountain peaks. Not to be forgotten. www.izaakwaltoninn.com.
Mt. Bachelor: After seeing a moose on the trail, I thought I was ready for anything. But seeing the white-bearded big guy in his red suit on cross-country skis at Mt. Bachelor did catch me off guard. I grabbed a picture and of course a candy cane and enjoyed the rest of the day on the looping, intersecting 56 kilometers, which from the trail map resembles the autobahn ride at Disneyland. www.mtbachelor.com/winter.
Methow Valley. This is where I cut my cross-country teeth. And why not? Nestled in a valley tucked into the eastern slope of the North Cascades, the scenery is incredible and the 200-kilomter trail system offers something for all levels. Skiing above the valley at 5,500 feet, the Rendezvous Trails offer a delicious view down-valley. After maybe 20 trips to the Methow, I can’t say I’ve skied it all, but it’s where I learned on the easy trails and enjoyed the incremental challenges on the trail system throughout the valley. World-class!
www.mvsta.com.
Loup Loup Nordic Trails: While you’re in the neighborhood of the Methow Valley, amble down the road to Twisp and head east for 12 miles until you get to the Loup Loup Nordic Trails. We tried both trail systems: the 22-kilomters on the North Summit which leave from the Loup’s alpine ski area, and the South Summit with 46 kilometers. www.skitheloup.com/crosscountry.
Echo Ridge (Lake Chelan Nordic): This is a hidden gem where I’ve rarely seen anyone else. A self-pay box at the trailhead leads to 25 miles of trails, looped together over a series of ridges for incredible views. Kudos to the Lake Chelan Nordic Ski Club which operates the grooming. www.lakechelannordic.org
Hurricane Ridge: Last but not least, one of my favorite places to ski, snowshoe and hike is in Olympic National Park. We’ve enjoyed being explorers on the unmarked and ungroomed trails throughout the park — but I think it’s the feeling of being on top and within a mountain range with 360-degree views that I’ve loved the best. The Nordic Center, housed in the Visitors Center, is a 45-minute drive up the mountain from Port Angeles. www.nps.gov/olym
Carolyn Price is publisher of Western Snow Sports.
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